If you were thinking of wearing flip-flops in the fall and winter, the Paco Rabanne fall/winter 2015-2016 collection should not scare you at all. With references and total ownership taken for the late 1960s, we are looking at slightly bohemian edges and very short skirts appearing on the runway. While we have to cock our heads to the side and try to understand what inspired a few of the pieces here, we can clearly see that bringing on Julien Dossena has had rather positive effects, his efforts not gone unnoticed as the house has gained momentum since 2013. The looks are sleeker, more streamlined and quite a bit more dignified than many others, though we still see lots of translucent shirts and bare chests straining to peek through.
The Paco Rabanne silhouette has always been rather voluminous and angular but Dossena’s latest projects include the combination of neoprene, rubber and metallic mesh, keeping to the futuristic quirky looks while truly appearing as modern and fresh as possible. There is a reason the 81-year-old Spanish fashion designer became known as l’enfant terrible in the 1960s fashion world and his ownership of the time period today is definitely an ode to those days. He was always known for his use of unconventional materials such as metal, paper, and plastic, creating outlandish and flamboyant designs that made him perfect for designing costumes for movie sets, as well as bringing his extravagance to Mylène Farmer concerts performed live. The brand’s creative director does well in keeping the Paco Rabanne traditions alive it seems as Julien Dossena experiments with different materials as well, though not nearly as outlandish as expected.
In the Paco Rabanne fall/winter 2015-2016 collection we are served a spectacular array of products, from crisp tailored tunics with geometric panel details to slim separates, trousers and tops. There are even some Japanese work wear inspired pieces that are utilitarian but softened with transparent layers that have an interesting iridescent gleam. Plus, between the short skirts and the sheer blouses, the collection stayed true to the themes the fashion house has always adhered to in terms of space exploration and sexual adventure. The Paco Rabanne brand was founded in 1966 and has never lost its 60s edge.
The footwear appears to be quite normal, in black leather high shine shoes and booties, all with pointed toes; they are black with tiered chrome block heels, sometimes made from Perspex. And then there are those flip flop style pieces that may not move around as much and might actually be more comfortable than your average shoe. It actually has a bit of a d’Orsay look to it with the slight raise in fabric at the heel. We were just hoping that the hemps of the voluminous skirts would not be so short as to force a woman to wear shorts underneath to protect her privates from being bared to the world. On the other hand, we do very much like those cuffed pants falling tighter and straight against the legs, cropped at mid-calf, or left to fall to the ankles. They are good looks and ones, which we can see ourselves wearing. Some of the pieces would look great as costume designs for a movie as well actually, particularly the baggy trouser with the double buckle belts and the rib knit top.
Photos courtesy of Vogue UK