Paco Rabanne’s creative director Julien Dossena is one of the fashion industry’s most optimistic minds. He brought his high dose of optimism to the House in 2012, after departing from Balenciaga, and has since then tried to inject his modern visions into each of Paco Rabanne’s line-ups. Season after season, he eventually managed to establish his aesthetics. The Paco Rabanne pre-fall 2016 collection perfectly shows Dossena’s thoughts on fashion, which are making the French maison definitely take a more contemporary turn.
Since the early ‘60s, Paco Rabanne has mainly featured iconic futuristic designs, which have shaped the house’s signature style for many decades. Slowly, Dossena managed to infuse his less futuristic visions in favor of a more streetstyle look that could ignite the market with modern vibes and casual-chic pieces. The collection we are about to see wouldn’t probably get unveiled less than 7 years ago, and clearly shows Paco Rabanne’s willingness to reinvent itself without eradicating its roots.
Combining athleisure-inspired items with funky pieces, the collection can be regarded as a continuum of daily outfits, which are basically meant to dress any self-confident and urban woman out there. The line-up also includes cozy mannish pieces, envisioning Dossena’s overall unisex style. It doesn’t, however, mean that the Paco Rabanne pre-fall 2016 collection fails to enhance the woman’s silhouette; quite on the contrary, thanks to some plunging necklines, miniskirts and striped patterns, most of the pieces celebrate the feminine figure, accentuating the curves without being too curve-hugging. Vertical, horizontal and fluid stripes surely help the silhouette look more slender and hourglass-shaped.
As for the materials used, Dossena spared no efforts to offer us well tailored and rich in texture fabrics. From Japanese technical wool to Velcro panels, to Mongolian fur to pure soft cotton, each one of the pieces blurs the thin lines between comfy wear and haute couture fashion, proving that we really can feel at ease while wearing high fashionable clothes.
He also particularly enjoyed playing with such fabrics, mixing them in very dynamical ways – such as combining the grey woolen tunic with yellow Velcro panels. He also played with different styles, creating an A-line black dress that pretends to be a windbreaker, and even a trompe l’oeil dress with a kind of destabilizing outerwear appeal.
Slightly baggy pants make a gratuitous comeback, making us wonder whether the Paco Rabanne FW 2016-17 collection will explore the Nineties theme deeper or not. Although mainly featuring dark colors, Dossena also used recurring white pieces or panels within the collection, reinforcing the label’s contemporary twist. The fashion designer did also use certain references to the fashion house’s founder.
It is well known that Paco Rabanne loved adding metallic touches in his collections, as he considered metal as an extension of jewelry. Through metal he wanted to both empower women and represent the future. To pay homage to Rabanne’s heritage, Dossena reinvented the label’s iconic plastic puzzle dress, converting it into black and tan leather. To top it all off, he included oversized metallic rings that once again denote that it is indeed possible to take the best from both the designers’ views on fashion.
Photos courtesy of Vogue