English fashion designer Sir Paul Smith may have a reputation for menswear, but this time around it was the women’s wear that he brought to us with triumph. The Paul Smith fall/winter 2015-2016 collection is the type of line-up that you either love or hate from the beginning, with lots of boxy looks and menswear inspired designs moving into more feminine style tailored pieces. There were none that would wow us though, despite our expectations from the well renowned designer.
Founded back in 1970, the Paul Smith label soon became well known among the highest classes. He is quite successful in the industry and was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II in 2000 after three decades of having himself set as a menswear icon. Responsible for 14 different labels, womenswear is certainly right up his alley. The man certainly has an eclectic aesthetic and he’s not afraid to show it off. At the moment, Sir Paul Smith has officially been named one of GQ’s 50 best-dressed British men in 2015, as of last month.
During the Paul Smith fall/winter 2015-2016 collection on the London Fashion Week runway, it was clear that the eclectic designer had fallen initially into his style of mannish tailoring with barely any softening to it to fit a woman’s form, with the textiles kept soft and the coloring in gentle autumn shades. He did not adjust and finesse his lines to meet the female body’s curves, instead allowing the two piece suits to hand slack and away from the skin; they came in flannel greys and washed out color blocks, while the pieces looked even larger on the models with their pockets, buttons and lapels moved off to the side of the jacket.
The shearling outerwear was really heavy and purposefully so it seems. It had raw edges and oversized toggle ties. Yet underneath this more masculine tailoring came the rather feminine pieces, which caught our attention quite nicely. Here we found softer, almost pajama-like polka dotted trousers, pastel satin shirtdresses and translucent pieces that were printed on and defined as separates. There was a real lack of compromise between the two styles of clothing, jumping from the oversized and loose tailoring that is blocky and without any form of attractive aura, and the chic pieces cut close to the body. They are masculine clothes to be worn by women, in a simple statement, without all the fluid gender-bending ideals found elsewhere on the runways.
Photos courtesy of Style.com