The runway presentation of the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini fall/winter 2017-2018 collection caused the expected stir during Milan Fashion Week. Philosophy had a much different aesthetic that we are used to seeing from the brand, but it was not unwelcome, just different and unexpected.
The description of the tone and aesthetic for the collection according to Lorenzo Serafini is “Liz Taylor meets a mod gang.” That his inspiration should be a fashion forward reference is no surprise, Serafini often spoke of Brooke Shields as a reference, but here with Liz Taylor being the inspirational reference, the look and feel of the collection makes so much sense.
The typical flavors of Victoriana were certainly missing in action here, showing a commitment to the ideas evoked by the reference. Not atypically many designers have one or two pieces that they have in each collection that are their standard, even when they try to depart from it. It may not be done intentionally, aesthetics is just the language spoken in fashion, and some designers have an unshakeable accent.
Here, the commitment to a mod fashion surrounded Liz Taylor received no deviation and it is a remarkable collection as such. All the good fashion components from the time period and reference were translated here for the current 2017 audience. The addition of tailoring made a very big difference on some of the looks, updating them without losing sight of what they are.
The inclusion of the bustier in the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection was daunting – many people are glad to not have to deal with that, but the tailoring keeps them much more comfortable and realistic to wear without damage. And so, Lorenzo Serafini achieved the accentuated bust and tiny waist without forcing us back into painful breathing and existing.
The decidedly mod outerwear was pretty and interesting with the black white coat that opened the show being a favorite. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serfini is a great selling brand. The prices are reasonable and the fashions are fun. There was no loss of fun here, which is why the brand continues to do so well.
Lorenzo Serafini seems to genuinely care about the women he designs for in terms of more than just “this will look good”. It is this well rounded approach that makes it so easy to see his appreciation for more than just a time period he recreates, but the ways to improve upon it so that the fashion era or other reference will not be a discomfort to address. We can look tough or sweet or romantic or eccentric and he can translate all of these into a single look because he appreciates the possibilities.
This is an opinion according to Serafini himself, who said: “Actually, I always love this kind of duality of a female soul – the soft and the hard, the romantic and the strength,” he continued to explain. “This time, it’s never too romantic. There’s always an edge.”
Photos courtesy of Vogue