Despite being at the helm of Philosophy only since 2014, Lorenzo Serafini is already giving a great personal and innovative touch to the label. Young and ambitious (before becoming Philosophy’s creative director he worked with Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana’s creative team), the Italian fashion designer is famous for his much acclaimed list of collections, and it seems we have to add his latest Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini pre-fall 2016 lineup to this list too.
Putting great emphasis on the prints, while at the same time focusing on Philosophy’s well-known stylistic traits, namely elegance and femininity with a touch of romance, Serafini took great inspiration from both the army and the Edwardian era, creating some effortlessly romantic yet urban-chic pieces that are just a pleasure to watch. The collection is also extremely bohemian in nature while being retro-futuristic at heart, as it even mixes Edwardian-inspired looks with some unisex contemporary vibes. To complete the looks, making everything look even more wearable, he used French beanies, thin scarves and leather belts as accessories (incredible Edwardian-inspired hats, adorned with lavish trims, such as feathers, overwhelm the collection too).
Being greatly influenced by the Edwardian Belle Époque, gored skirts and bolero-inspired jackets (which became a must-have during the era) are some of the lineup’s most featured pieces, while the alternation between tight-waist items and drop-waist long dresses gives dynamicity and versatility to the collection (towards the end of the Edwardian era the waistline dropped and the silhouettes became straighter). He didn’t of course forget to add some suits and pinstripe motifs to the outfits, paying homage to what became an actual fashion statement and revolution during that era (by the beginning of the 20th century women began wearing suits, which was seen by many as an implicit challenge to the patriarchal authority).
Keeping his time-travelling extravaganza alive, Serafini even managed to combine Nineties and slightly Seventies influences in the collection, as seen by the many biker boots, cropped sweaters and retro-inspired prints that came combined with A-line skirts and mannish trousers. At one point he somehow even managed to mix Seventies-inspired long fluid dresses and palazzo pants with Oriental print motifs, which became extremely popular towards the end of the Edwardian era.
All these influences and inspirations, combined with the heavy fabrics used, perfectly denote Serafini’s tailoring skills, which helped the designer create a highly-decorated and detailed collection. Each one of the outfits has been adorned with intricate embroideries and appliqués, such as military buttons and crochet lace adornments, while loads of frilled hems and lace fabric collars elongate the necks, arms and legs, subsequently making the figure look slimmer. At this point, it really looks we are just about to time travel within a few months!
Photos courtesy of Vogue