For the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini pre-fall 2017 collection, Serafini decided to locate to an old fashion store in London. Back in the 1970s and ‘80s, Biba was the go-to locale for London’s fashionistas, and Lorenzo Serafini took the new preseason to revisit the iconic fashion destination and gain a great deal of inspiration. He translated the inspiration and went a bit further, looking to the ‘60s for a majority of his collection by making it full of joy and old time glamour that sometimes is wanting in modern fashion.
“I was looking for a kind of escape from our time,” Serafini told WWD. This sentiment comes at a time when the film “La La Land” is one of the most successful films in theaters; Serafini himself noted the connection – it’s not difficult to see that people lately are nostalgic for the passion and elegance of fashion past.
There’s this air of undiscovered passion that was alive in that time that the Italian designer brought into so many garments and ensembles in his lineup. And it certainly doesn’t help that there is so much at question in the world today. To Vogue, the designer said, “It’s a reaction to our uncertain period; I looked for a more joyful time.”
Fur coats and elegant fishnets are two of the collection’s offerings that are on our shopping list for the preseason, because who can resist the idea of enveloping comfort and subtle sexiness of patterned fishnets – especially if they’re worn together! They both carry the luxe ease of the ‘70s, which was a beautiful contradiction of the time.
Plaid outerwear was another lovely addition, coming in several colors and styles. A cape coat in a large-scale green and pink print was a throwback look that is still applicable to today. Cape coats never quite stepped down from fall street wear, and are still cute whenever they are slipped into a collection. It’s one of those styles that have never been overplayed and have been subtly beloved through the decades.
Plaid wasn’t his only move into patterns, with leopard print also sharing the spotlights; green and pink were accompanied by reds, oranges, and gold. Fabrics like lace also played a key role in the line. One look consisted of three different lace pieces, and even then the designer managed to not overwhelm the model that wore it.
A one-sleeved lace mini dress with a ruffle was a cute focal point to the outfit in white; a long-sleeve black lace top was worn underneath, covering the bare arm and poking through underneath the white lace of the dress; finally, the line’s staple patterned fishnets (which are already to die for) finished off the lacy ensemble. Serafini clearly knows his limits and strengths as a designer, and he clearly is flaunting them for fans everywhere.
Everything worked together to be delightfully retro without being outdated, as Serafini put out a collection of cool street wear – the only times taste was questionable came at points where looks bordered on costumey. For instance, a Puritan-styled mini dress (complete with white shoulder details and cuffs) might have been more street savvy with a smaller-scaled belt buckle, and a velvet purple coat dress is a bit reminiscent of Gene Wilder as Willy Wonka. That being said, the designer’s goal was to be nostalgic!
The overall presentation of clothes was sublime and refreshing with all of the bits and pieces coming together as a true show. If this is what the 2017 pre-fall collection looks like for Lorenzo Serafini, then hopefully we can expect an even greater and more spectacular lineup for the Philosophy in-season work this year.
Photos courtesy of Vogue