Just by looking at the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini spring/summer 2016 line-up, you can see that the brand’s new designer that debuted his creations for the house back in February had a lot in mind when coming up with his 2016 ready-to-wear collection. He designed for the modern woman through the lens of the ‘70s, the Victorian Era, and the old prairie. With his variety of corsets, frocks and micro-floral print, Serafini brought together three different eras and made a modern, cohesive collection. The designs were strictly young, with a distinctly wearable air. But just when you thought the clothes were becoming a bit too light and pretty, he threw in crisp, white garments that brought the semblance of modernity back into the collection.
There’s some beautiful work done in the latest Philosophy spring 2016 collection, but it left an unsatisfied feeling afterward. The pieces were undoubtedly beautiful and his intentions were clear, but almost too much so at some points. His prairie theme was clear, but modernized enough to be wearable by today’s women, but the incorporation of the cow print was too apparent. There are some great elements at work here, and we wish they had been just a little more refined. His use of the under-bust corsets made us wish the old Victorian fashions could come back into trend for today – I would be able to hop on that bandwagon.
Serafini’s collection was a refreshing palate cleanser from the high intensity collections of the Fashion Week, but that’s not always a good thing for a designer. While we loved his clothes and thought each garment was beautiful and unique while also being extremely wearable, there weren’t any pieces that matched the extravagant stage of the Fashion Week. Despite this detail, the Philosophy collection was an excellent display of craft mastery geared towards a younger audience. Beautiful looks graced the runway, such as a voluminous blouse tucked into a pair of black shorts, topped with a black under-bust corset. This overall look was the perfect balance between the eras and cultures Lorenzo was trying to cover.
This season shows a common trend of lingerie being displayed in the show, and Lorenzo hopped right on with that, mixing it in with his sheer dresses and lace craftwork. It kept it young, and didn’t feel quite so seductive as it did ethereal, or dreamlike. The see-through materials mixed with the pretty patterning and the sensual lingerie details overall created a romantic style that was harmoniously blending Western motifs with the refined Victorian era.
Whether it’s about pretty daytime clothes or sophisticated evening looks with a big dose of femininity, the latest Philosophy spring/summer 2016 collection has definitely our fashion cravings covered. As Serafini continues to do more for the fashion industry, he’ll definitely be able to hone his craft more and establish a greater foothold in the world. There’s definitely a lot this designer has to offer, and there’s no telling what will come of his next runway show.
Photos courtesy of Vogue