Prabal Gurung is on a mission he won’t bail out for at least four years. Like most of New York Fashion Week’s designers, Prabal Gurung also decided to speak up through fashion, letting his fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection be a place of comfort, tolerance and rebellion at the same time.
After unveiling his 37-piece fall/winter 2017-18 collection, designer Prabal Gurung showcased a sort of line within the line that, without mincing words, clearly explained Prabal Gurung’s point of view regarding one of our society’s darkest times. As it happened with designers such as Christian Siriano and Maria Grazia Chiuri, just to name a few, Gurung also decided to imprint such thoughts on an array of t-shirts that is already on everybody’s lips, either with journalists pointing out that t-shirts won’t save the situation, or aficionados loving them to the moon and back.
Some of Gurung’s political slogans included powerful messages such as “Revolution has no borders,” “I am an immigrant,” and “Nevertheless, she persisted”, with the designer reinforcing the concept by marching with his models wearing the notorious Dior t-shirt-inspired “This is what a feminist looks like” tee, which gave us a clear idea on what Prabal’s visions on intersectional feminism, women designers and the Women’s March movement are.
To further enhance his perspectives on equality and even on the industry’s unrealistic beauty standards, Gurung embraced diversity by asking plus-size models Candice Huffine and Marquita Pring to walk for his show, a choice Christian Siriano made, too. Although there is definitely a long way until diversity is fully embraced by the industry (whether we refer to gender identity, size, or race, etc.), Gurung’s move is surely appreciated.
Rebellions and empowerment aside, the Prabal Gurung fall/winter 2017-2018 collection was particularly interesting in terms of styles, figures and colors, too. For the next colder seasons, Prabal Gurung’s color palette is en extremely variegated one, with all of its hues, except for a vibrant yellow, being filtered through winter’s dark and cold lens. To accentuate winter’s magical shades, he even added silvery, metallic touches here and there, which also helped revitalize the runway show towards its end.
As for the silhouettes, the Prabal Gurung fall 2017 rtw collection particularly focused on the waists, with belts, hourglass figures and high-waisted cuts enhancing them. Other common patterns, as seen in most of the line-up’s ensembles, were the flared cuts, especially when it came to the sleeves, and the layered lines, which either served as the founding structure for the gowns, or as a way to highlight contrasting fabrics, such as the multicolored intarsia furs.
The collection, of course, also featured Gurung’s ethereal touch with crystal embroideries, here sewn on see-through, Nineties-inspired dresses that will very likely hit the headlines during the next red carpet events.
Photos courtesy of Vogue