From Versace’s to Chanel’s, Monique Lhuillier’s and now even Prabal Gurung’s, the new pre-fall 2017 collections unapologetically appear to be part of a rule-breaking kind of pre-fall seasons, with the designers not being afraid to show what they genuinely want for/from the fashion industry, or how they feel about the modern society they live in (and dress).
The latest Prabal Gurung pre-fall 2017 collection takes ready-to-wear so seriously, the designer managed to create a 39-piece line-up that not only pays homage to one of history’s leading modern artists, i. e. Mark Rothko, but also exudes the feeling of dismay and fear many are currently facing.
Within just one single collection, Prabal Gurung managed to break two common misconceptions and prejudices many feel when it comes to fashion, namely that high fashion is not meant for day-to-day, actually wearable outfits, and that fashion designers are too shallow to care about what happens around them.
Nepalese Prabal Gurung, who has never made mystery of his support for former US president candidate Hillary Clinton, decided to transpose and exorcize the aftermath of the US presidential elections into each one of his 39 pre-fall 2017 proposals, filtering them through artist Mark Rothko’s thoughtfully deep lens and, at the same time, keeping any woman’s needs in mind.
That being said, like Lhuillier with her pre-fall 2017 collection and most recently Alessandro Michele with Gucci’s lineup as well, Gurung also focused on separates, treating us to probably one of his most versatile and wearable collections ever. Without giving up on style, Gurung managed to focus on utilitarian garments that can work as the basis for any future outfit, or as it-staples to complete any look, meaning that the Prabal Gurung pre-fall 2017 collection is nothing but a dream array of must-have essentials.
To make things even more imposing, he let himself be carried away by Mark Rothko’s artistic world, to which he “travelled” while in London earlier this fall, during a visit to London’s Tate Modern Museum. “It particularly hit me because his work started with lighter colors, and as the years progressed and he became more political and more depressed, the colors turned dark,” he explained regarding the exhibition.
Like Rothko’s artistic excursus, Gurung’s pre-fall 2017 collection also starts with lighter, more jocose colors and ends with darker ones, with the latter being predominantly used to refinish the collection’s evening proposals.
As for the overall collection’s appeal, what Gurung tried to accomplish was a sort of modern femininity, with haute couture-esque details, such as structured sleeves going hand in hand with ultra casual skirts and t-shirt.
Overall delicate, the collection features a few slightly grunge-inspired apparel alternatives as well, the roomy pants and oversized sweaters out of which probably are the best examples. Layered dresses, sheer patterns and wrapped cuts dominated the scene as soon as Gurung “switched” to Rothko’s darker side, while clean cuts and almost minimalistic figures seemed to be there to calm and fill us with positive vibes thanks to their harmonious lines.
There is one thing for sure – the Prabal Gurung pre-fall 2017 collection is anything but ordinary.
Photos courtesy of Vogue