In the absence of Miuccia Prada, design director of the house Fabio Zambernardi presented the Prada spring/summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection around skirts. Every ensemble had emphasis on the different lengths and shapes of classic combinations, remaking them as a product of the designer’s mind. Everything seemed to be displayed with a breeze of professionalism. With the aesthetically pleasing asymmetrical skirts in the show, Prada reintroduced the world to the skirt suit. Up until this show, the image of a skirt suit would always bring up a simple, neutral colored pencil skirt with a blouse under a blazer. Yet, Prada showed that they can reinvent even the most basic fashion combination in the industry.
There are some truly beautiful pieces in Prada’s new collection, and there is no denying that the designer overcrowded each model with layer upon layer of add-ons. This makes for a great runway experience, in that you get the overly dramatic looks, while still being able to purchase the outfits with the intent of not overdressing or accessorizing with gaudy earrings, like is shown in this runway show.
Prada always uses a lot of stripes in this collection, which vary in thickness from piece to piece. While in some looks the styling made them seem to be too much, the individual pieces are truly remarkable. They can be universal, dressed up or down, all-business or all-leisure. Her line for the 2016 spring season is versatile, and remarkably commercial once you strip down the layers.
The models shown on the runway were truly on-the-go everyday women, which makes this show a hit, in my book at least. When designers can bridge that gap between women of the business world and models displaying artwork, something truly beautiful happens. Models can look great in just about anything a designer sends down the catwalk, that much is true, but Prada really embraced the idea of a crossover, and showed this mastery in the styling of hair and makeup. The slicked back, tightly held hair is perfect for a girl on the run, as it prevents flyaway hairs when travelling. The fantasy element of artwork comes through in the straight, gold lipstick each model sports. That’s something you rarely (if ever) see on a woman going about her day, so the idea of mixing the “real” and “modeling” worlds is apparent and beautiful.
She always sent a selection of coats down the runway, some of which in thin but soft fabrics. These pieces may be good for the first weeks of spring when there’s still that bite in the air, but in warmer climates at least, wearing those beautifully sewn jackets will have to wait until fall. Many of the lighter, suit jackets had a masculine form to them, showing an empowered womanly figure for the professional world.
Androgyny is big on the runways this season, and Prada definitely did a balance act of feminine and masculine power. The feminine beauty was unmistakable throughout the collection, but the addition of masculinity brought it all home.
Photos courtesy of Vogue