The Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2017-2018 runway presentation was the goodbye to New York Fashion Week that many were surprised was coming, and a lot of people are sad at the concept. To clarify things, Proenza Schouler will be moving to Paris and adopting the Vetements’ sale enhancing show model. While this is a move up for the brand, it is a terrible loss for New York Fashion Week that will definitely be different in the absence of the fashion house.
There was hope for those who felt that the designers – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, were hinting at the change as a trial run rather than a permanent change. For most, however, it is just a huge change that they are going to have to suffer through, with a hole left by the departure of a great runway presentation by a brand that has cemented its name with more than a decade’s worth of compliments and excitement around the brand. People genuinely looked forward to the show in New York each year and they will no longer have that.
Apparently the difference in the rules and expectations between New York and Paris Fashion Week will benefit them in the best of ways so we can only wish them best. The use of the Internet to live-stream shows and purchase the fashions has really changed how fashion works, so outside of the loss during NYFW itself, what really changes besides the show dates?
At any rate the Proenza Schouler fall 2017 collection was packed with elegant ideas and interesting cuts and eye-catching details that were completely unexpected. Smooth, form-flattering dresses featured an asymmetrical detailing and treatment over the bodices to affect how eyes travel down the form. The varying lengths and designs included in the collection were of course exciting, but they did not stand out so much that they erased the other ensembles as well. Flatteringly cut and graciously assembled suits were an interesting development in the collection.
While several of the collections have been showing suits for fall and winter, Proenza Schouler’s fall 2017 ready-to-wear line, the last to be shown at New York Fashion Week at least for now, has provided a charismatic yet elegant set of options that are ready for work and the daily transition. The suits and work-appropriate dress items were touched with detailing that similar to the dresses draws the eye on a bit of an unexpected journey over the ensemble.
The Proenza Schouler logo being the most prominent and surprisingly placed detail was much more welcomed than not. The accessories are definitely going to make the biggest of splashes throughout the collection with the surprising designs that were shown. The most interesting feature, perhaps because it was so unexpected is the use of the logo as exaggerated zipper pulls; it seems a fun and slightly odd detail that really does add to the overall coolness of the collection.
Photos courtesy of Zimbio