Proenza Schouler’s headquarters are in the process of fermentation these days, and their recent choices regarding the fashion calendar change will reveal their possible effectiveness in a few weeks. Back in December last year Proenza Schouler’s director of public relations revealed that the acclaimed fashion house wasn’t going to unveil their pre-fall 2016 collection until the line-up itself was close to hit stores circa in June. We now not only know that the Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2016 collection’s delivery is officially scheduled for June 1st, but that the full-loaded line-up was definitely worth the wait.
Regarding the choice to fully promote their creations a few months later than the usual schedule (pre-fall collections are usually presented in January), Proenza Schouler’s creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez proved to be literally willing to follow the fashion house’s ideology, which is never fearing evolution and being constantly eager to face challenges in the fashion industry.
“Obviously the system doesn’t make so much sense anymore. The way things are set up [in fashion] is part of a bigger conversation, but things need to change for now. We’re just looking at our own situation and trying to find something that makes sense for us. We’re not [instigating] this whole industry-wide shift. It makes sense to release a collection closer to when you can buy it. It’s as simple as that;” McCollough told WWD, while Hernandez also revealed that it will also prevent the major fast-fashion retailers from copying Proenza Schouler’s designs.
While only time will tell whether this was a good decision in terms of success not, what we can firmly state is that the Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2016 line-up indeed is a breath of fresh air, as it gives us certain pre-fall trends we have not seen anywhere else yet. What’s more, both Hernandez and McCollough chose to link this collection with the previous one, giving us a sort of fashion continuum made of decorative ribbons, flamenco vibes and tiered ruffles that will keep us in the iconic Proenza Schouler style from summer to winter.
The Proenza Schouler spring 2016 Cuban vibes are, in fact, easily to be seen here as well, and got graciously intertwined with those of the label’s fall 2016 collection (which exuded some clear Frank Stella artistic inspirations). This line-up focuses on the silhouettes, dynamically alternating A-lines with dropped down peplum cuts and hourglass figures. While Frank Stella’s geometric paintings added a minimalistic touch to most of the solid-colored ensembles, the Cuban inspirations got translated to fringed hems, lavish appliqués, sleeveless tunics and sleek fabrics, the vibrancy of which will let your figure literally shine.
Patchwork motifs and cozy coats are at the core of this collection, reminding us that the cold weather is indeed coming (in a few months, but still…). Nehru collars create a great contrast with the line-up’s retro prints, leaving us wondering whether all of these proposals are meant to be mix-and-matched or not (probably not, and we bet we can expect a lot of matching styles for the next months, as proven by the latest Gucci x Net-a-Porter capsule collection as well).
Hernandez and McCollough didn’t then forget to add a few Proenza Schouler signature details, such as the extremely intricate embroideries and draping that just give the collection an ultimate uber-chic touch.
Photos courtesy of WWD