At times a dissertation is just a dissertation but not in case of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who turned their joint thesis into the first collection of their New York based fashion brand Proenza Schouler. The designers are crafting refined textiles and fabrications, thereafter shaping them into real masterpieces on the runway only because they are constantly looking ahead and endeavoring to introduce something that has never been seen before. Once we see the pair looking on the past and reiterating prior designers, then we can rest assured that Proenza Schouler is soon to abandon us. And this is not our own observation but the unfaltering determination of the crackerjack designers, who continue moving forward and launching the astounding Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2016 collection.
One may wonder whether the pair has such ample and boundless fantasy as to dumbfound the entire fashion world anew year after year. The answer lies in the straightforward fact that the designers consider the whole world to be their working place. Every single journey becomes a starting point for a new breezy collection that will later on find its appropriate place on a modern It girl or an extravagant celebrity. Actually the Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2016 collection is a gentle hint that this year the pair has explored the Spanish and Iberian lifestyles and stealing some hues, motions or just gestures from the dwellers they craftily spread them on the new collection. Add some effects of semi peeled bananas and you will get what rocked the runway yesterday at the New York Fashion Week.
“We were looking at bananas, things that peel away from the body.” declared Lazaro Hernandez. As a matter of fact nothing better could have been thought to describe the half naked or maybe half dressed models. The runway was literally rocking with torn and unfinished pieces alternating each other. While we were staring at shirtdresses with off-shoulder cuts or multi-ruffled dresses with breached rips or those knitted dresses with mesh effect with just one sleeve or with a part as if accidentally unfastened we were pondering on what other cutout solutions the designers had prepared for us. And there we were staring at the three dresses with a myriad of frills, with one sleeve missing, one hip peeping and the high sky side slit intriguing. All this makes an illusion that McCollough’s and Hernandez’s creative work has been hindered by someone and as a result they could do nothing but send the incomplete collection down the runway.
The show opened white attire with black details like buttons and a ribbon looped through, which was later followed by zillion ribbons on different pieces at different parts but all of them having just one thing in common – the sense that the ribbons should have been shaped into a romantic bow but something had hindered the designers. The abundance of flounces, pompom edges and a little bit of anglaise broderie with the collection’s palette being exclusively black, white, red and only one emerald green, transfers us to Spain, where the pieces will be perfect for passionate dances.
The designers went even further by proving us that for genuine clothing-makers any material will work perfectly. And they managed to make us gaze at two intricate and exquisite dresses with overlays of feather mesh, as well as a skirt with bead-link mesh. The runway just could not lack in accessories and shoes. Proenza Schouler signature PS1 bags are back and pointy-toe mules with laces are the best matches for a collection full of ribbons.
Photos courtesy of Vogue