Not entirely new, not entirely familiar, the newest Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2017 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week today afternoon, will surely not disappoint those who love the Maison’s signature designs, while at the same time exciting those who are looking for timeless classics infused with a more modern zest.
Proenza Schouler’s creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez put a lot of emphasis on the craftsmanship as well as the textures and architecture of the pieces this year, offering us sensual staples that could easily transition not only from day to night, but also from winter to spring and from summer to autumn.
The Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2017 collection looks, in fact, trapped between two seasons, with fresh trench coats, kimono jackets and cozy sweatshirts dominating the scene along with fresh skirts and sandals. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are offering us new takes on summer fashion, subverting the conventional norms by not only delivering heavier silhouettes, but darker shades too.
The line-up’s color palette features everything from black to white, from blue to red, with checkered patterns dynamically alternating each other, giving us strong urban-chic vibes.
The collection pays homage to the confident, cosmopolitan woman, mixing both urban-chic lines and cuts with romantic figures that will update the overall spring /summer 2017 season with loads of pleats and strategic cut-outs that sort of lighten up the more sharp, clean-cut lines.
A strict geometry is enhanced by the collection’s astounding variety of fabrics, as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez went heavy on leather, furry embellishments and sleek, heavyweight fabrics. The latter were mainly utilized to translate conventionally menswear-inspired staples to more feminine ones, with boyfriend shirts and t-shirts likely to be the major sellouts at the stores as soon as the collection becomes available.
While creating staples for their Proenza Schouler woman, the designer duo also transported the collection to the Eighties and Nineties, making ample use of chokers and asymmetric cuts accordingly. As for the chokers, along with oversized earrings and platform pumps, their refined and thoughtful lines and motifs denote the designers’ willingness to focus more on the jewelry line, as they have been ramping up Proenza Schouler’s accessory business for a while now.
Another stand-out feature from the collection is to be found (literally) on the models’ bodies. To highlight the jewelry pieces, Proenza Schouler’s creative directors asked makeup artist Diane Kendal to paint the models’ ears with MAC’s Chromacake pigment, in either yellow or white. It is not the first time that bright pops of colors get applied on the models’ ears, but it is definitely surprising and kind of shocking to see such a bold [ear] makeup style at a Proenza Schouler runway show.
Are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez slowly preparing us for Proenza Schouler’s most extravagant collection, one step at a time? We guess only time will tell at this point.
Photos courtesy of Vogue