Alessandro Dell’Acqua Mixed the Classic With the Eccentric for His Rochas Fall 2017 Show

The Rochas fall/winter 2017-18 runway show at Paris Fashion Week was pretty muted. There are still some of the unique fabric manipulations and colors we expect to see, but the lineup shows a great deal of restraint from creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Backstage, Dell’Acqua told Vogue that “elegance” was the one thing on his mind for this season’s runway. To the designer, then, elegance means midi skirts and pointed pumps.

The silhouettes were tailored more for the fashion elite who have need of garments for evening events. A few basics came through in different designs, but it mostly comprised event-wear. The clothes were elegant and the flashiness was kept to a minimum, but it was still there in unexpected glimpses.

The proper dresses were quite sophisticated and elegant from the front, but when they turned around there was a surprising amount of skin being bared. So, the designer opted for a new direction, but didn’t abandon that sense of fun and modernity. As Dell’Acqua told WWD, “It’s an equilibrium between classic and eccentric.”

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

His eccentricities in the Rochas fall 2017 ready-to-wear line came mainly in bows. A crisp white blouse had a line of bows down the middle, as did a light blue coat. Bows popped up on shoulders and fronts of garments, in places other designers may not have even thought. Yet, they didn’t detract from the mature elegance the designer was trying to portray.

The Rochas label’s “R” was a common motif that popped up in many different places. It was embroidered on clothes, handbags, and shoes. It became a bit too much for a cohesive runway line, but if the garments are out on their own the garishness wouldn’t be nearly so glaring. It’s one of the eccentricities Dell’Acqua brought with him to the collection, but it didn’t meld as well as the bows.

Floral was a subtly sexy pattern in the lineup. A tea-length bustier cup dress was created in a classic black floral. It read as subtly sexy and refined. Fur was another fabric to note, with two bulky coats coming in tan and red.

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Another fabric manipulation that borders eccentric is his fringe garments, particularly the two dresses – one black, one gold. The gold look was surprisingly sophisticated and would look stunning at any evening event; but the black one fell short, with the volume becoming disproportionate in some areas.

Needless to say, Dell’Acqua easily accomplished what he set out to do. He made an elegant and sophisticated collection that was centered around femininity without entirely giving up his eccentricities. This seems to be the first step in a slight brand redirection, but it is too early to say for sure.

It would be easy for the designer to steer Rochas in this more mature direction – as long as Dell’Acqua never lets go of his little quirks that make the clothes fun and unexpected. This is a nice break from the standard, bizarre Rochas setup, but we’ll have to wait for the brand’s next runway showing to determine whether or not it will be a lasting trend.

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Rochas Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 RTW Collection - PFW

Photos courtesy of Vogue

Recent Posts

Holley’s Outfit Of The Week 2/23.

  This week on the live social media love segments we did, I got a lot of requests for information regarding my outfit. SO, I decided to make it this week's "Outfit of the week"....

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2018 Collection at MFW

Paul Surridge presented his second collection for the Italian brand Roberto Cavalli at MFW. The designer tried to stick to Cavalli's signature maximalist aesthetic while involving some of his minimalism here and there. Watch the...

Gorgeous Pastel Nail Art to Try

Spring is almost here, so we are ready for new, fun nail designs. According to celebrity nail artists this year gorgeous pastel shades will be trending. If you are tired of all the dull, dark...

Versace Fall 2018 Collection at MFW

Donatella Versace is a huge celebrator of bold colors and prints. Her Spring 2018 show filled with nostalgia for her late brother Gianni Versace and the biggest current and former supermodes was on for the...

KITH Debuts Net-a-Porter Partnership with A Champion Collab

The popular streetwear brand KITH will now be available on Net-a-Porter. Many have been waiting for the moment when they could get all their favorite KITH pieces via the luxury online retailer. Since everyone loves...