Sensuality and innocence are the feelings and sensations Alessandro dell’Acqua wanted to evoke with his newest Rochas resort 2017 collection, which could be regarded as ethereal, feminine and almost mystique, indeed. For the upcoming cruise season, Alessandro dell’Acqua, whose debut Rochas fashion show took place in February 2014, is both celebrating the house’s roots and revamping its hallmarks with his seductive uber-feminine take on fashion.
Dell’Acqua’s women are strong, confident and independent, with an attractive sensual femininity, which often leads the designer to veer off from the brand’s heritage to a more glam-rock kind of fashion. For this reason, the Neapolitan fashion designer often showcases a neutral color palette that mainly features blush, white, beige and light gray tones, aside from a few total-black ensembles. And his signature delicate hues are to be found in the Rochas resort 2017 collection too, which however manages to highlight dell’Acqua’s artisanal skills with rich, more opulent shades.
Balancing innovation with tradition, as well as texture with the richness in colors (like many of his contemporaries, he doesn’t leave anything by chance, choosing the fabrics depending on the color/pattern scheme utilized), dell’Acqua focused on billowy figures and layered silhouettes, interrupting the airy lines with clean-cut coats and knee-length classy pants that gave the collection a slightly tomboyish allure.
Rochas’ infamous 2/3-length coat is, of course, present in the line too and, surprisingly here its length got translated to most of the skirts too. As for the pockets on the skirts the French fashion house became famous for, dell’Acqua geometrically attached them on the cozy coats instead.
Matching blush blouses create an interesting tor-sur-ton effect with the coats, leaving it up to the fabrics and textures to create a pleasing contrast (whilst the coats were made of a warm wool material, the blouses feature a sleek silk material).
As for the slightly brighter ensembles, dell’Acqua had fun experimenting with both floral patterns and bold blue color touches, the ultimate expression of which features an oversized, heavyweight floor-length matte blue maxi dress that somehow manages to accentuate the figure adding dynamicity to the collection, despite being meant not to hug the curves.
When it comes to the botanical prints, Alessandro dell’Acqua used them to create both Seventies-inspired off-the-shoulder dresses tight at the waistlines, and Eighties modest dresses with squared shoulders. Although differing in styles, all the dresses feature common frilled and pleated details, put either on the hems or sides.
The Rochas cruise 2017 collection is extremely interesting in terms of accessories too, thanks to the use of pointy-toe flat shoes and embellished mules, proving that the socks-with-shoes trend is not dead yet.
Photos courtesy of WWD