For the Rochas spring/summer 2016 collection presented at Paris Fashion Week, Alessandro Dell’acqua made it perfectly clear that he wasn’t designing for the everyday woman. Inspired by Gala Dalí, Salvador’s wife, he created garments with a regality, which suggested only a woman of luxury could wear these looks – that is, a well-off woman who doesn’t have to take part in the struggles of daily life – but made the concept almost out of reach, but not quite. Many designers create collections to give the everyday woman a wardrobe so she can look fabulous anywhere she is; but not Rochas, where the brand seems to do the exact opposite. He created a series of looks to embody a well-to-do lifestyle, for women already in that walk of life. But the beauty of each piece is unmistakable in their uniqueness and elegance. Although his take on ready-to-wear may not be what other designers are trying to accomplish, it definitely is a collection for women who just want that extra degree of sophistication and poshness for their everyday lives.
Where his collection dips to a more accessible level is in his incorporation of prints. While the silhouettes are undeniably sophisticated, there is a dimension of old and modern street style when they are shown with oversized, colorful prints, like his first look, which was a jacket over a pencil skirt, with everything seeming a touch too large. This also plays into a trending theme for spring/summer 2016 of masculine women’s wear. Slip dresses were also a more casual take on his “regalwear,” with the first dress being a stunning look. The top was slightly disheveled, but the overall dress was simple, nicely colored, and held the cohesive elegance.
The models were styled much as the Rochas muse was imagined: simple yet flawless hair, softly tied back or otherwise out of the face, and topped off with only enough makeup to emphasize the face. But the use of sunglasses toned the collection down multiple levels. There are so many ways in which Dell’acqua played with this double identity, and it didn’t stop with the models’ faces.
The shoes were anything but regal, but were perfect for his juxtaposition. The most common shoe used in the collection were slim, lace-frilled heels. They were fun, bright additions to the looks, and didn’t always match with the looks, but always served to bring the ensemble down a few notches.
With his take on what the Rochas spring/summer 2016 collection should hold, Alessandro Dell’acqua really skirted a thin line between extravagant and over the top, but ultimately fell to the first. Even though some looks may be hard to pull off for daily wear, Dell’acqua’s stamp is clearly on his designs.
Photos courtesy of Vogue