The Rochas spring/summer 2017 collection was a very intriguing runway show at Paris Fashion Week. The aesthetic was lightweight all around, but the largest surprise was the number of dresses. Of thirty-three different ensembles, all but one featured dresses or skirts. While the lack of options made the show seem singularly minded and the silhouettes enforced this, the collection was still bright and colorful in a way that makes it easy to appreciate.
The inspiration for this collection was said to be the 1940s, reimagined in a lighter form and colored with the palette of German born fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld. The ‘40s were known for dresses and sets with a tighter top and a full A-line bottom, which we certainly see traces of throughout the Rochas spring/summer 2017 collection that showed during Paris Fashion Week.
Erwin Blumenfeld was a well-known photographer whose fashion-forward photos were featured in Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue during the ‘40s and ‘50s, which is why Dell’Acqua experimented exactly with this time period. Though the chosen style inspiration period is the 1940s, and this influence is certainly visible right away, the addition of current trends was not lacking in the least.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua has been doing wonderfully well for Rochas since being signed on in 2013 and this year is no exception. Throughout the Rochas spring 2017 ready-to-wear collection it is clear from the silhouettes that he understands how to incorporate an inspiration without allowing that inspiration to completely take over the aesthetics. The softer colors complement the style to create a very soft look that is very feminine and fun.
The sheer trend dominating the runways of each of the spring and summer fashion weeks was present even here, in a great number of layers for several looks. One of the best looks in the Rochas runway was a dress, specifically look 24, which featured a floral printed fabric layered with sheer black tulle. The other great look was 17, an ankle-length green dress with sheer skirts.
There was a single coat on the runway, but it was also cinched at the waist, creating a similar silhouette to many of the dresses as well. The only pair of pants on the runway was a pair of dark green, cropped pants that was matched with a dual colored twinset.
The imagination was definitely there, Alessandro Dell’Acqua made good, clear choices that did pay off aesthetically, but the lack of other very popular options like pants, jackets in the collection was disheartening. The skill employed in creating this collection would be even more amazing when used in producing a well-rounded ready-to-wear collection.
Photos courtesy of Vogue