With her Roksanda spring/summer 2016 collection, Roksanda Ilincic showed us a completely new side of ballet, and opened up a whole new realm where dance and fashion collided. The result was a truly remarkable explosion of geometric shapes and an unconventional color palette, embracing the side of ballet that you can’t see from the theatre seats. The movement of ballerinas was frozen in time, and the resulting shapes were sculpted with fabric. Voluminous silhouettes were created, and you can almost see the ballerina herself, quiescent and displaying her strength for the world to see.
Deconstruction is a significant trend on the runway for the 2016 spring season, and Ilincic definitely showed domination with her asymmetrical designs. The London designer showed this mastery in her first design of the show, which sported a unique combination of pale blue, black, white, and orange. Organized chaos would be the best way to describe her theme of cutouts for the show, as everything had a hint of raw edge, while still displayed her premeditation with each cut. Her first two looks displayed this pattern, yet I was jarred with her first pair of pants of the morning. It is best to start by describing the smart shape of the trousers, and the perfectly symmetric lines that acted as embellishment. The color was beautifully accented by a pale blue, sleeveless blouse, cinched at the waist by a single black band. But the right hip is the real intended focal point, and is the place your eyes are instantly drawn to. A large, fluid type of deconstructed ruffle is constructed to curve around the pant leg.
Roksanda doesn’t stop with asymmetrical oddities, she moves on to show soft, fluid jumpsuits in the same shade as the classic “ballerina” image. With some truly flawless construction and execution, the designer doesn’t just stop with beautiful, simple garments (alongside her abstract, unconventional looks), but goes one step farther to reach eveningwear. She presents a finale of feathers, in shapes much like a ballerina’s frilly tutu. Her final look, a floor length garment in a soft shade of pink perfectly embodies everything the designer is about, and everything she wanted to produce for her collection. She gave us the ballerina, she gave us the unconventional shape and extravagant silhouette, but above everything, she gave us a piece to act as the perfect finale to this collection, in a way that no other piece possibly could.
In a way, this look goes beyond the “ready-to-wear” parameter it was placed in. It would take a certain stature of person to pull of the extraordinary pieces of art that were shown on the runway, much like Ilincic herself, but that definitely won’t stop me from admiring from afar. If there is one thing that can be said about Roksanda, it is that she knows how to put on a show. Simply watching from the stands can open your eyes in a way that only this designer can, and she can create a whole new world just from fabric.
Photos courtesy of Vogue