Presented at 180 Strand for London Fashion Week, Roksanda Ilincic’s newest Roksanda spring/summer 2017 collection is all about femininity and modernity, as seen within both the lines and colors of the proposals. Along with her signature shapes and bold usage of colors, for this collection Roksanda took us to a parallel world made of whimsical embroideries and abstract patterns, combining them all together just to confirm the Serbian designer’s unmistakably standout approach to both ready-to-wear and high fashion.
Although being more muted than what we are used to, the Roksanda spring/summer 2017 collection’s color palette is all about rusty and dusty colors, with orange, pink, mustard cranberry, black, and indigo dominating the scene. As the collection drew to a close, Roksanda took the time to experiment with metallic lime yellow and white too, the crispy-contoured hems and refinements of which really emphasize her purpose: channeling “freedom and laziness” at their purest.
Lightweight fabrics, loungewear-inspired jackets and trousers, along with contemporary, fresh cut-outs and plunging V-necklines, surely help Roksanda reach her goal of ‘laziness’, giving us something ultra cozy and edgy to feel comfortable in.
With laziness being enhanced by the line-up’s materials, freedom is to be found in the collection’s lines and cuts, even if the latter might only evoke sharpness at first glance thanks to the sharp-cuts. Along with the fabric choice, all of the Roksanda spring 2017 line-up’s designs feature pure minimalistic lines, with bon-ton, flared cuts even bringing at times a flirtier, naïve attitude to life. Extremely variegated, the collection includes, in fact, completely different inspirational patterns, with the ‘naïve girly girl’ motif being just one of them.
Always polished to the nines, the collection is also meant to please a more elegant, urban-chic kind of woman, as seen within the runway show’s first part. Here is also were, uncannily, Roksanda managed to create and channel whimsical combinations of bright colors, such as red and pink and dark ochre with rusty orange.
Here the lines simultaneously drew inspiration from both the Nineties and the Oriental culture, with Nehru collars being alternated with kimono-sleeve slip dresses, sheer appliqués and sleek detailing. The second part, namely the ‘girly girl’ one, took the first section’s bold monochrome patterns and translated them to abstract motifs, with white Pop Art-inspired patterns interrupting the first part’s extreme minimalism.
The Roksanda spring/summer 2017 collection’s third part focuses, instead, on evening dresses, with maxi skirts and loads of fringed embellishments interrupting the line-up’s kimono jackets and wide-leg trousers. This third part really makes red carpet-ready proposals wearable indeed, which is no small feat for sure.
Photos courtesy of Vogue