Instead of focusing on his glorious demi-couture past, Mouret decided to spice things up centring his fall collection around sensuality, filtering the motifs through an appealing and dynamic modern lens. Ever since showcasing his first collection precisely 20 years ago at London Fashion Week, where he is regarded as a habitué, Mouret has never missed a chance to experiment with demi-couture (namely “half-custom-made women’s clothing”), as well as with his famous Galaxy Dress, the signature squared neckline and hourglass figure of which have been here creatively revisited, too.
Garments aside, Roland Mouret’s blue-sky thinking was once again the runway show’s major protagonist, even with the show’s location, London’s National Theatre, being somehow transformed by the French designer’s visionary approach to fashion.
The Roland Mouret fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection, through which Roland aimed at spreading messages of a “louche sensuality”, was overall carefully packed with strong fashions and a thoughtful sense for proportions, inspired by women’s different kinds of femininity.
Although one could describe the Roland Mouret fall 2017 collection as conventionally feminine in silhouettes, if one looks deeper into the separate staples, a clear forethought for modern appeals becomes quickly visible, especially when it comes to the separates. That said, instead of focusing on one single kind of femininity, Mouret embraced them all. Clean-cut trousers, elegantly casual shirts and even oversized blazers interrupted the collection’s dresses with something to wear on a daily basis, the relaxed lines of which got here often harmonized by thin belts cinched at the waists.
Roland Mouret’s modernity was also translated to one of the collection’s most recurring patterns (in terms of both the day-to-day and evening proposals), i.e. the off-the-shoulder necklines. Paired either with sensual chokers or the aforementioned belts, such necklines play an appealing contrast with the collection’s Galaxy Dress-inspired squared and structured cuts. The same goes with the layered ruches and frilled hems, which also added an ultimate ethereal touch to the overall line-up.
The Roland Mouret fall/winter 2017-18 ready-to-wear collection is also particularly interesting in terms of its color palette, which here found dark-toned purples and blacks juxtaposed with cheerful yellows, bright blues and even soft lilacs. Roland seemed to be inspired by metallic and sheer patterns too, officially becoming one of the many designers who are trying to bring the metallic shades back in style for 2017.
Last but not least, for his fall/winter 2017-18 collection Mouret joined forces with fellow Frenchman (and friend) Louboutin, who for the show designed a dream array of mule-style sandals that one cannot help but covet (and add to next winter’s wish list already).
Photos courtesy of Vogue