Here we are with one of this Paris Fashion Week’s most anticipated runway shows: Saint Laurent’s. The Saint Laurent spring/summer 2017 collection represented, for the first time ever, creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s perspectives on the French mansion’s spring/summer styles, as he was named the house’s new creative director earlier this year.
Whenever it comes to summery staples, Saint Laurent is always on the front line, ready to treat us to breathtaking proposals that always make everyone happily satisfied. Back when Hedi Slimane was at the helm of Saint Laurent, his spring/summer runway shows were always the most acclaimed, as they never missed the chance to mix YSL’s legacy and signature styles with contemporary and structured lines.
Anthony Vaccarello surely had a lot of pressure on his shoulders, which however did not undermine his creative skills. As reported by Vogue, earlier yesterday morning many were more worried about Vaccarello’s debut at the house and about the collection’s success and subsequent possible criticism, as they all know Hedi Slimane is still in the hearts of many.
Some of the proposals, as seen on Vaccarello’s and the mansion’s social media accounts back in June, were already available to be seen via short videos and teasers, and surely intrigued even those who were not that sure about his appointment at the helm of the house.
Sultry and sleek, the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection is all about self-confidence and attitude, with staples that will make those who love total-black outfits rejoice. Aside from a few casual denim items, metallic materials and acid animal prints, the collection is (purposely) not standard Yves Saint Laurent, aside for the heavily structured lines and hems utilized.
“I wanted to have fun,” explained Vaccarello backstage. “I wanted to have a clin d’oeil—a wink—to Yves Saint Laurent, rather than. . . . He did so many things, I don’t want to repeat the things he has done. It’s not about the garments, my idea of YSL lies in the attitude and how we handle things. There are fabrics like leather, vinyl, velvet, lace, but then they’re put on a girl of today.”
Vaccarello’s way to perceive attitude is thus seen throughout the Saint Laurent spring 2017 collection with super-short hems that bare the legs while also elongating them, structured sweetheart necklines that add a sort of romantic glam rock attitude to the entire line-up, and see-through fabrics that leave nothing to the imagination.
As for the denim pieces, their washed-out and shredded effects were a sort of statement for Vaccarello, which we will likely see in the collections to come, too. Although this collection was honestly not that variegated, it did have a noble purpose to call into question, namely that of debunking what we regard classic luxury. With his line-up, Vaccarello wanted to prove that luxury is rather a state of mind, and that attitude is indeed what matters the most.
“I think luxury shouldn’t look like “luxury” today. It’s about the finishing inside the clothes, or the quality of the fabric without it necessarily looking luxurious. It’s about the attitude of the girl,” he told Vogue.
As for the collection’s must-have staples, Vaccarello focused on puffed-up mini dresses cinched at the waists (a recurring pattern we saw during this past MFW too), oversize crystal earrings, and stiletto shoes with YSL’s unmistakable logo as the actual heel.
Photos courtesy of Vogue