Earthy colors, 3D patchworks and structured relaxed lines, Max Mara’s little sister Sportmax just unveiled its fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection at Milan Fashion Week, and if nothing gets ‘more oversized’, you won’t probably see anything bigger for the next few days. Full of prints and solid-colored pieces too, the lineup took athleisure and reinvented it in a more formal way, with certain influences from Morocco.
Alternating safari looks with evening frocks to wear in Tangier at night, the FW 2016-17 rtw collection also travels back and forth from the Moroccan northern coasts to Northern Europe, displaying pieces that one wouldn’t be surprise to spot in the edgier streets of Berlin, London or Copenhagen. Wearable and cozy, the overall collection doesn’t however give up on style, as it features sharp structured jackets and warm spongy skirts that will probably appeal to most of us.
What’s more interesting is that Sportmax literally took some of the Max Mara group’s most iconic lines, cuts, and staples, such as peplum, capes and t-shirt dresses, and took them to another level, making those designs slightly bigger, billowier and even more vaporous thanks to their textures. The collection actually focused on textures too, surprisingly choosing to not employ any kind of lace inserts aside from two looks, namely a layered A-line dress and a floor-length cardigan.
Two fishnet frocks interrupt Sportmax’s richness in textures, although being layered upon silky white/red maxi gowns accordingly. Even when showcasing sleeveless dresses or cropped shirts, the collection appears to be the warmest, coziest and most wearable ever, even if dressing up in one of its proposals might definitely be kind of complicated for those who are used to more curve-hugging pieces.
As for the colors and the patterns used, the protagonists in the collection are mainly four: on the one hand we have black and white for the fans of classics, while on the other we have cubical prints and abstract patterns. Of course, in keeping with the tradition, Sportmax employed many vertical and horizontal stripes too, playing more with geometry rather than with the marine theme, just to further enhance the lineup’s whole structured concept. While stripes got mainly adorned with black & white hues, just like the abstract patterns, the squared and triangles took some touches of colors, such as green, dark tangerine and dark brown, and concentrated them into sharp A-lines skirts, long-sleeved kaftans and refined jackets, adding quirky optical effects to the catwalk.
Sportmax particularly enjoyed alternating high and dramatically low-waist pieces, oversizing the lines and almost getting rid of all the collars. Collarless coats, asymmetrical and tight round-necked shirts may be regarded as the collection’s key pieces, along with the sweatshirt dresses and the purple-red proposals.
Young at heart, yet always sophisticated and minimalistic (useless decorations are nowhere to be found here), this latest Sportmax collection reinforces what many were pointing out during the label’s fall 2015 and spring 2016 lineups: the brand’s designers are Céline alumni and it still is undeniably evident.
Photos courtesy of Vogue