Thakoon Panichgul showed his first show-now-buy-now fall 2016 collection Thursday night at New York Fashion Week. This season was the designer’s first showing as a unified label; he recently combined his main brand with his more contemporary collection Thakoon Addition. Keeping this integration in mind, it’s a bit easier to understand why the Thakoon fall 2016 see-now-buy-now collection was so eclectic at times.
Despite the hiccup in cohesiveness, however, the clothes in the line were beautiful; the individual pieces were great despite them not working well as a cohesive collection. It seems as though Panichgul designed a separate collection for each of his lines before mixing them together to create this runway presentation.
At times, we were treated to easy summer pieces, like the breezy blue cotton dress that started off the show; such pieces were inherently youthful, fun, and flirty. This trend continued on throughout the beginning of the collection, showing up in other denim garments and cute silhouettes.
At other times late in the collection, however, we were shown different types of garments that looked like sleepwear and swimwear collections. Some of the pajama-esque tops looked like the models rolled right out of bed and onto the runway, and the designer even showed a terrycloth bathrobe.
The clothes mimicking swimwear came in the form of strappy dresses with triangle bikini cutouts acting as the bust-lines. It was as though he kept flipping back and forth between two complete collections before deciding to simply show them both at once.
Despite that, though, all of the clothes were wearable in their own ways, and also maintained this level of spunky edge that kept things cute and concise, which is quite an accomplishment for such a confounding collection.
One thing is for sure, and that is Panichgul’s motivation to elevate this younger muse’s wardrobe. He shows that she can still have these fun denim pieces in her closet, but that she can also make room for these higher end pieces that will let her continue to have fun while bringing in some maturity into her style. Perhaps this was the intent of the show. Perhaps the Thai-American designer was showing the merging of his two lines intentionally.
No matter what he set out to do here, we can see that his vision is evolving. We may be able to expect more of this juxtaposed, in-cohesive setup in his later collections, but I would bet that he continues to evolve, learning to balance the flirty youth and modern sophistication together in the individual ensembles rather than alternating whole looks in the same collection as he did here.
With his changing business, the show still brought in some great names in the fashion industry. Celebrities like Jessica Alba, Christina Ricci, and Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann were front and center for the unveiling of the show.
Photos courtesy of Vogue