Western looks, ‘70s styles, forest sheriffs, masculine lines… We see a lot more masculine happening here than on most other collections presented anywhere from the New York Fashion Week to the London, and now the Milan. We have to wonder about Paris of course, but the androgynous trend has generally given way to feminine but strong artistry for the fall and winter seasons it appears. The Trussardi fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection is a hoot really, with the inclusion of uniforms turned daily outfit looks on the Milan Fashion Week runway.
We see interesting characters, such as the equivalent to a sheriff or guard with the bowl hats and shirt over shirt combinations, the comfortable pants in brown with suede boots, the only feminine touch being the scarf around the neck and perhaps the thin look of the belt around the waist. We see what we imagine to be electricians or laborers, with the blue denim-like coveralls, belted at the waist and boots underneath, though the satin lined coat thrown on top gives it a much more glamorous appeal.
Of course, we do see the hyper-feminine as well, that comes into play with the long slip of a dress in a silk blend that falls around mid-calf, open chest and low neckline and all, a long cardigan pulled over in white to cover up the bare arms due to the spaghetti straps. A gorgeous scarf around the neck certainly helps bring out the lovely femininity in a lady, while the large handbag and brown leather half boots counteract the daintiness of it all.
It appears that old is the new young according to Gaia Trussardi, as she refers to how she mixed up her pieces by immersing the new ones with the company’s archives for the coming season. It certainly did have a great effect though. The country-chic is quite appealing alone, without the touch of Trussardi, but when that connection does exist, the results are marvelous.
From updated vintage pants to corset jackets, gorgeous pieces to ride around in and blazers in corduroy and printed velvet all make for a line that we certainly want to immerse ourselves in. We find flowing maxi dresses layered under double-breasted blazers, pieces appear that combine suede with the Prince of Wales wool, while we are in love with the oversized knits and the use of suede in general. Revamped small geometric patterns also got their show here, appearing on silk pajama pants and on velvet three-piece suits.
It was all very artistic and with quite the attitude, showing of a woman with skills to take on the world. It has been said that the final products look too dated, but our opinions are quite to the contrary as we can easily see how the more covered up creations make for a more stylish comeback. We might be seeing a little Ralph Lauren in here, but that is no problem really, though we would have wanted some of the colors to have a bit more Trussardi in them.
Photos courtesy of Vogue