There is a theme in the Ulyana Sergeenko Couture fall/winter 2015-2016 collection that cannot be denied. Between the sweetheart necklines, the silhouettes of the skirts and the fish scale prints that appear here and there, there is something that reminds us so thoroughly of mermaids within this particular collection. Couture it is and the ocean is where it all comes from apparently. Of course, not everything falls into that theme, considering the flowery fields that we find among the pieces as well. Though, we have to say, sea and meadow nymph, the bare chested look kept us in style within the couture world along with the ready to wear collections seen but a few months back.
Ulyana Sergeenko had found herself hit hard with the fall of the ruble. It appears that the times have reminded her of days when the fallen aristocrats had been forced to cohabit with the common folk, the Communist Soviet regime sweeping through the nation. The designs have certain modesty to them, in shape, color and decorations, with plain coatdresses draped over pretty silhouettes and an order of restraint sweeping through it all. Despite the official inspiration, there is still the fairy tale world, the one we noticed at first glance, the mystical creatures that frolic through the meadows and jump through the foamy waves. The plainness belies something more, a cloaked adventure that is kept under wraps, peeking out from underneath as we notice those sky high mules with mink puffs, along with those bustier dresses made negligee style in pale pink.
This season saw the inclusion of the traditional sweetheart necklines on mini dresses, pleated ruffles falling over the hips, colored sequin embellishments, and opulent handbags with jewel tone embellishments in satin ice cream cones. Everything about the Ulyana Sergeenko Couture fall 2015 collection is more or less exquisite, with fur pompoms and crystals in the furry parcels. There is an air of sensuality that is unrivalled, from the night blue jumpsuit to the one-piece black number wrapped in a sparkling throw. Our favourite? A frilly sleeved black wraparound dress with a plunging neckline and thigh high slit, looking as sumptuous as ever. Actually, we see quite a few pieces with the same trends, the slits more prominent throughout the line-up, but those incredible sweetheart necklines looking as lovely as ever. There is nothing more beautiful than showing off the décolletage along with the cleavage, while ensuring that the rest of the shoulders and bust are covered up demurely in fitted velvets. We might want to skip out on the blue checked mermaid dresses though, which simply give the body a strange and unnatural shape, literally turning the lady into a bell bottom.
Between the Russian history and soviet misery to the sumptuous craftsmanship that is Ulyana Sergeenko, this collection is a line-up or artistry that could maybe do without the overly sheer or full baring of the breasts. We may be frozen in time, but there is something ultra-modern about it all as well.
Photos courtesy of Ulyana Sergeenko