An ethereal artistic air wafted as soon as Pierpaolo Piccioli opened his Valentino Couture spring/summer 2017 show with an astounding ivory crepe plissé column dress in white, the vertical silhouette and softly pleats of which literally froze elegance in time.
With this Valentino Couture spring 2017 collection being Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first-ever solo debut as a couture designer, all eyes were inevitably on him today in Paris, with many critics, journalists and aficionados wondering what kind of inspirations and references the Italian designer had in mind while creating all of these 59 looks.
While last year, when he was still part of a creative duo, Valentino brought early 20th-century Venetian romanticist vibes on stage, for this couture collection Piccioli focused on the romantically nostalgic feelings one usually gets while immersing himself into the inspirations from Neoclassic era, when a strong fascination with ancient Greek and Roman arts emphasized a structurally clean kind of aesthetic.
Like the artists from the Neoclassic era, Piccioli also revisited classic Greek and Roman arts, yet in a more modern key, here to be seen especially in the choice of the unconventional fabrics and unexpected designs. Although chiffon whites, satin and floral embroiders were at the core of this collection, surprising patterns, such as soft camouflage prints, metallic hot pinks and see-through laces, also made their imposing appearance, indeed proving there are still plenty of possibilities when it comes to revisiting old-time classics.
The most recognizable Greek goddess-inspired touch was to be seen in the figures and lines, which favored clean-cut, statuesque silhouettes over dramatic flared lines and voluminous cuts. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s modern factor was to be seen, on the other hand, in the detailing, such as butterfly sleeves, off-the-shoulder necklines and Nehru collars, the eased-up twists of which not only softened the collection’s verticality with something more fluid, but also made sure to add in enough modern zest to keep the collection’s overall allure always interesting.
The Valentino Couture spring 2017 collection also denoted Pierpaolo Piccioli’s almost maniacal forethought to the proportions of each garment, here sculpted according to the Greek’s ideal and divine body measurements.
Smartly packed with strong fashions that included everything from revisited suits to even ultra minimal tunics, Valentino’s Couture spring 2017 fashion show was memorable in many ways.
Showcased at the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, the minimalist setting of which created an appealing contrast with the abstract works by Chinese artists Zhang Huan and Liu Wei that were hanging on the walls, the Valentino Couture spring 2017 show also tried to stir up extra sensorial perceptions thanks to composer Alexandre Desplat’s notes, whose symphony was exclusively created for this couture collection of Piccioli’s. Now, that is an all-round runway show, indeed!
Photos courtesy of Vogue