It’s almost impossible to imagine a world without Vetements. And to think, the brand hasn’t even been around for three years yet! Designer Demna Gvasalia and businessman Guram Gvasalia are brothers and the clever minds behind the now-influential label.
It was back in fall 2014, when the two were filming their first Vetements collection, which ended up in the form of a lookbook, since they didn’t have the money to do anything more professional – 27 buyers actually came out to the Paris apartment to see the line, but most were hesitant to invest, since the company was so small and new. It’s hard to imagine that now, in 2016, businesses like Style.com are vying for Vetements.
Yasmin Sewell, fashion director of the e-commerce Style.com, came to Vetements with an expressed interest of stocking the label on a regular basis. The Vetements brothers responded with the idea of recreating the fall 2014 collection, since its original debut was so small and heavily scrutinized. The capsule Vetements first-ever collection is actually going live today!
Demna was the one who had the initial though to pay homage to the seed of their brand, and it was especially fitting since Style.com has recently closed and reopened in its new form. There’s just something that feels so right about what each company has gone through that makes everything work perfectly.
“Our site had little visibility; it was hard to find originally, and I was never convinced about the graphical aspect, anyway,” said Demna, regarding the beginnings of his label, in a phone interview with Vogue.
He said this while also preparing for a hectic runway show for Balanciaga. “I said, ‘Look at Style.com, everybody who works in fashion knows this website.’ The way to navigate was very clear, very simple, very immediate. The idea was to revive it and use it as a template.”
For Demna and his brother, this resulted in VetementsWebsite.com, which is now officially live. The styling is very, very similar to that of Style.com in its original form, in many ways – we can also expect to not be able to make purchases directly from the brand, but rather find links to its e-tailers.
“I’ve loved Vetements since the beginning,” said Sewell, in a Vogue interview. “The spirit of the brand really resonated with what we want to give our customer – aside from all the industry talk, just really great, wearable clothes, something to own forever. Nobody really saw [the first] collection, and if you see the way they’ve produced those pieces, they were perfect from day one. It’s all there – the jeans, the sock boots, the hoodies. Totally flawless.”
And to capture the “flawless” setup of the original Vetements collection, Style.com actually just recreated the original lookbook – with a bit of a higher budget, of course. Oliver Hadlee Pearch and Maud Escudie (the same photographer and model, respectively, as from 2014) were the only two featured in the lookbook, staying true to that simple, easygoing style. For Demna, it was “a kind of strange déjà vu.” The only key difference was its location, this time being filmed in Demna’s new, more upscale Parisian apartment.
“Some things in this collection, we really felt they’re very present today,” he continued. “That was an interesting discovery. Certain things didn’t change. There was already the presence of tailoring and streetwear mixed. There were evening hoodies, this flat tailoring that we’ve kept reusing.” We have always had the inkling that Vetements was particularly fashion forward, but now seeing this collection and its applications today, we know that is completely accurate.
The revitalization collection doesn’t include all of the original pieces, however. Some of the garments were given away as payment for helping with the original lookbook, and others required the use of different fabrics.
Sewell said, “For us, and for me personally, there is so much love for the old Style.com, and to acknowledge this with Vetements – a brand so widely known for collaborative working – was perfect. It felt like a thank-you to the past.”
Photos courtesy of Vogue