The Vetements spring/summer 2017 RTW collection was definitely one of the most anticipated runway shows of the year, which was finally held at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, featuring 18 collaborations and absolutely meeting our great expectations.
With its spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear show, Vetements broke all the fashion rules, confirming its position as the anti-fashion label par excellence. Although recently appointed as Balenciaga’s creative director, Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia is clearly keeping Balenciaga’s signature style off from that of Vetements, with the French Collective’s notorious street-style allure always rocking the runways.
Running from the 3rd to the 7th of July, this Haute Couture Fashion Week gave the unique chance to some labels to unveil their SS 2017 RTW collections too, alternating thus super-opulent shows, such as those of Guo Pei and Zuhair Muhad, with those of not only Vetemets but also Francesco Scognamiglio and Iris Van Herpen. Special guest Vetements got the opportunity to showcase its RTW collection in the halls of the historic Galeries Lafayette, which further implements the contrasting motif this couture week is about to embrace.
As if unveiling a unisex RTW collection at an haute couture-dedicated week wasn’t enough in terms of subverting the (fashion) rules, Gvasalia went further into his anti-fashion statement by asking 18 brands to collaborate on the collection, letting thus labels such as Levi’s, Reebok, Champion and Carhartt be part of the show.
In contrast to what Gvasalia usually offers to his audience, namely big bold logos, this time around he opted for more discreet looks, leaving it up to the lines and cuts of the ensembles to speak for the collective’s way of perceiving fashion.
The line-up could thus be regarded as a well-served potpourri of soon-to-be must-have staples, with Vetements’ own versions of the Carhartt workwear, Doc Martens boots, Levi’s denims and Juicy Couture tracksuits surely waiting to fly off the shelves in the blink of an eye (be quick if you like any of the pieces!).
Aside from the aforementioned collaborations, Vetements kept up with its signature style, focusing on oversized silhouettes and deconstructed staples that perfectly mix Margiela’s conceptual fashion with the coziest street-style fashion one could possibly ever dream of.
The genderless theme was strong in this collection too not just because of Gvasalia’s decision to let both male and female models walk the runway show. Both he and those at the Vetements Studio decided to intertwine what’s conventionally regarded as feminine with all things masculine, combining, for instance, laced-up sandals with mannish Oxford shirts, as well as tight boots with button-down shirts.
Denim overalls got alternated with layered jackets and shirts, with sleek curve-hugging pencil trousers paving down the way for one of the best heroin-chic-approved looks ever. According to Vetements, the upcoming spring and summer seasons will also change the rules for what concerns sexiness, with deconstructed workwear adding an unconventional kind of edginess to any wardrobe.
Oversized hoodies remind us of the collective’s first staples, while metallic boots help us understand what we are about to see during Vetements’ future shows.
Windbreakers and slightly conventionally feminine staples made their appearance too, just to make us wonder once again: “who decides what is ugly and what is beautiful?”
Photos courtesy of Vogue