Artistic duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have just delivered what could be regarded as their most cheerful couture collection ever, with impressive haute couture-esque pieces that, however, are highly wearable anyways. Behind the Victor & Rolf Couture fall/winter 2016-2017 collection, it is possible to trace a few references from ready-to-wear clothing, and not from painting or sculpture as it usually happens during the couture runway shows, which means that the designs are not as extravagant as we are used to seeing.
There’s another subtle motif that links all of the line-up’s pieces to one another: sustainability.
Created in 1985 by Jean-Pierre Blanc, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography is not only an observatory of trends, but an international launching pad for many emerging designers and photographers, whose creations get analyzed by an international jury. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who always keep their leftovers, had the chance to showcase their pieces at Hyères in 1993, in what resulted as being an incredible experience pad, indeed (they actually won the fashion designing competition).
They did not of course throw those leftovers away, and they finally managed to use them for their Victor & Rolf Couture fall 2016 collection. That’s where all those cascades of sequins, embroidered on everything from military jackets to trench coats, come from, and why we can fairly state sustainability is at the core of the line’s philosophy.
When asked about the collection during a preview, Horsting himself declared: “We want something organic. We were thinking of conscious designing, and recycling. It felt kind of logical.”
To further embrace their journey of fashion sustainability, the duo utilized the ‘Blue Screen’ (fall 2002) and spring 2015 couture collections’ leftovers, proving little steps can be extremely meaningful and inspiring when it comes to the fashion industry (their creative minds are now taking more and more action against pollution and environmental/human exploitation).
The vintage theme (it’s still hard to realize that by saying ‘Nineties’ we are not talking about something that happened only 10 years ago), keeps on going strong with revisited punk references as well, here to be seen especially within the accessory line (look at those hats!) and coats. A retro-futuristic motif shows us what Charles Dickens’ characters probably wear in a less foggy London, wherein multi-colored patterns gain the upper hand over pilgrim necks and heavy looking textures.
Aside from being heavily colored, this line-up is multidimensional too, with structured frills, pleats and draped layers of cloths all featuring different shades and, in return, filtering all of the pieces through a fresh, yet always sophisticated, lens.
As most of the designers from this Paris Couture Week did, Viktor and Rolf left the most imposing and jaw-dropping pieces for their grand finale too, displaying the most unconventional red carpet gowns we have seen so far. Their mantra in this case seems to be ‘the bigger, the better’.
Photos courtesy of Vogue