The Viktor & Rolf fall/winter 2015-2016 collection unveiled during Paris Fashion Week puts a beautiful end to the Amsterdam-based fashion house’s ready-to-wear line, a decision Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren announced back in February. Like Jean Paul Gaultier, they also decided to focus on their couture collections, but also the fragrance ranges, explaining the move as “a strategic decision to position the Viktor & Rolf brand in the highest luxury segment of fashion”. So this is the last time we can enjoy the duo’s creative ready-to-wear designs, at least for now, hoping one day they’ll come back with a new force and fresh and exciting designs they have gotten us used to expecting from their brand.
We can feel a strong haute couture vibe wrapping up every single piece of the 23 looks long Viktor & Rolf fall/winter 2015-2016 collection, which focuses on chic eveningwear and cocktail dresses utilizing brand-new interpretations on cuts, silhouettes and detailing. The subdued color palette and the rich patterns used enhance the glamour in these designs, while the unexpected shapes featuring dissected and random cuts keep the mood energized and modern. Pretty flowing ruffles and asymmetric volants are the focal points of the detailing applied to the looks, which add so much movement and texture to the looks along with the perfect layers. The luxurious jacquards with glam touches of lurex and in darker shades are the next guarantees to the absolute chic and elegance the entire collection comes drenched in.
While the lookbook kicks off with abstract jacquard two-pieces featuring both pants and skirts, all coming adorned with the same big ruffles, the following looks bring the season’s next big trend – tweed, used for much more office-ready looks, like the perfectly-tailored slim-fit gray trousers worn with the classy tunic with an abstractly cut hemline. The black mini dress with a touch of lurex and with lots of breathtaking volants is the ultimate thing you need to steal the spotlight at any party, while the creative elongated black tuxedo with unexpected cut-outs coming teamed with a jacquard mini dress can be the perfect piece for taking your casual and elegant outfits to a whole new level, spicing things up with a big dose of modern allure. Generally, tuxedo-inspired looks appear quite often throughout the collection bringing subtle androgynous vibes that look so futuristic and creative here.
By the end of the collection, we are treated to more breathtaking evening looks, like the sleeveless long gown in the various shades of gray, adorned with the same flowing ruffles and a high-slit or the closing dreamy dress with an asymmetric hemline and pretty autumn-ready florals that we crave so much. The same print appears on the mini cocktail dress and the duo of the pants and the cropped top as well, the latter of which features an interesting cut-off design flashing a simple black fabric underneath.
The shoes of the Viktor & Rolf fall/winter 2015-2016 collection are about comfort and luxury combined, as we discover either flat or low-heeled options crafted with the same fabrics as the outfits they come to complement. The designers decided to avoid the traditional runway presentation, this way placing the focus on their exit rather than on the entrance of the models. Instead, the models were photographed in a dark room with a salon draped grey felt on the backdrop symbolizing the final curtain of the brand’s ready-to-wear line. Can we please have some more, at least for one more season?
Photos courtesy of Style.com