There is nothing more rewarding in the fashion world than seeing a brand reunite with its own roots, unearthing the original style guides and inspirations, modernizing them, and presenting the outcome at the Paris Fashion Week fall 2016. You might have guessed this is what happened with the Vionnet fall/winter 2016-2017 ready-to-wear collection this week. This season we saw unique designs walking down the Vionnet runway, and some of them, you would think, were too much out of ordinary. In fact, they were so interesting that there had to be a story behind it.
Everything started with Goga Ashkenazi, the head of the fashion label based in Milan, who finally got hold of real treasure – 17,000 fragments of Vionnet designs that were never touched by the gaze of the public before! The treasure included photographs, drawings, fabric samples, embroideries, buttons, and so much more. Some of the findings even revealed bills passed down from Madame Vionnet herself! That can be a start of an entire Vionnet museum.
The fragments were handed by Madame Vionnet’s goddaughter, Madeleine Chapsal. Not too many labels can brag about a heritage like this, and since Vionnet landed on a perfect occasion to connect to its history, the new ready-to-wear collection can be considered somewhat special. Some of the fragments found their crown place on the inspiration boards of the new fall/winter collection, and what followed after that was a discovery of a new side of Vionnet.
Slick and elegant designs, spiced up with extra fabric and big shapes… Some would consider them too much because some of them were just too big. But if we pay closer attention to the percentage of such shapes and figures in the entire collection, you will notice that that’s how the show started and that’s how it ends.
Everything in between is flavored with glamour, femininity, exceptional draping and a smart choice of colors. We saw a lot of copper, pink, yellow, purple… and an olive brown in the remarkable color blocked draping dress. A marvelous front slit and a mix of warm colors like beige, olive brown and white, as well as the visual power it demonstrated in movement make us wonder why it never ended as the showstopper. Other than this, black, white and gray were the dominant colors, often mixed with happier tints but more than often left alone with their own full beauty.
These pieces are inspired by the heritage of the label itself, and this may be an incredible chance for buyers to invest in timeless trends that could be rocked by our predecessors a couple decades back and would absolutely fit into our present world. A fashion message from the past, if you will.
Despite this heavy inspiration, all designs were, of course, modernized and altered. We can’t tell how much of it came from original designs, but the story behind each dress is still worth a listen… and maybe even a purchase.
Photos courtesy of Vogue