When looking for inspiration for the Vionnet pre-fall 2016 collection, owner and creative director Goga Ashkenazi favored comfort. The line uses luxe silks and fine fabrics to create daywear looks inspired by the comfiest clothes of all: pajamas. But structure was not lost among the flowing fabrics, rather they were manipulated to create interesting shapes and silhouettes in some looks.
If the pajama theme wasn’t enough just from the fabric and loose fit, Ashkenazi created some garments in a print featuring an animated horse. One of my favorite parts of choosing pajamas is looking at all of the cute prints used, so I, for one, was overjoyed with this fun addition to the collection. And even though the print is a bit eccentric, it doesn’t seem to cheapen the looks.
But the Vionnet pre-fall 2016 collection wasn’t all about extreme comfort translated into daywear. Some looks simply mirrored the silhouettes of pajamas, while using structure and shapes to create dimension. One such look was a grey dress with a layer of pale orange lining. This garment plays with structure in the shoulders, as well as the draping detail down the front. This dress is the perfect balance between comfort and wearability, and would look perfectly at home in any office building.
The designer also drew a bit of inspiration from her own spring/summer 2016 line, which can be seen in the black and milky pink dress, with the black half being ruched and the pink half being pleated. This dress mirrors a dress created in the brand’s last collection, where a dress was created in almost the same interesting way in white and pink.
This contrast between styles can be attributed to Ashkenazi’s high level of energy, as she looks to many sources of inspiration for one collection, and this was no exception. You can see draws from the likes of fashion icon Daisy Fellowes, Op Art painter Bridget Riley, architect Antoni Gaudí, and contemporary artist Michael Craig-Martin. On top of these illustrious inspirers, Ashkenazi also had over 75 notebooks from the 1930s, from Madeleine Chapsal, Madeleine Vionnet’s goddaughter. The notebooks were accompanied by original sketches and embroidered swatches, which is a remarkable place of inspiration to be placed in the hands of the woman who now owns the Vionnet brand. These all play into this collection’s artistic undertones, and also explain the wide array of differences between garments.
And through all that, the result was chic and sleek. The couture house techniques were able to flow free without taking away from the modernity, and everything was able to hang loosely for elongated lines and full silhouettes. The pieces in the Vionnet pre-fall 2016 line moved, to put it simply. A simple color palette helped the movement shine through in the photographs, and even though some looks were a bit busy at times, the creative director made sure to leave you with fond memories from the collection of simplicity, ease, and of course comfort.
Photos courtesy of Vogue