Pre-seasonal collections can also function as contemplative moments, in which fashion designers may celebrate their own creative path in the industry, as seen, for example, in the latest Zac Posen pre-fall 2017 collection.
One of Hollywood’s most acclaimed designers, Zac Posen actually is no stranger to “contemplative” pre-fall collections, as he took the previous Zac Posen pre-fall 2016 and 2015 lineups as a way to review and reinvent some of his main ready-to-wear shows, with the purpose of perfecting his proposals and learning from this ongoing process as a result.
Although he usually draws inspiration from his previous ready-to-wear collections, for his Zac Posen pre-fall 2017 collection, he decided to travel even more back in time, combining elements from his big debut on the schedule in 2001 with Forties-inspired motifs.
While the latter already appears to be a strong and steady pre-fall must-have motif (Bottega Veneta and Erdem, just to name a few, all drew inspiration from the Forties for their pre-fall 2017 collections), the fact that Posen wanted to pay homage and revisit his very own debut is particularly interesting.
When Zac Posen finally debuted his ready-to-wear collection, he was already well known for a dress entirely made of thin leather stripes, which granted him a place at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London for the “Curvaceous” exhibit. That being said, his first fall 2012 ready-to-wear collection quickly became an instant success, although receiving mixed reviews.
Maybe starting from the latter, or maybe just to give us a “grown up” point of view on the collection that made him internationally famous, Zac Posen took his fall 2002 RTW collection and transposed it to a retro-active present, focusing, however, on a less multicolored palette and on a different inspirational decade.
While he mostly utilized pops of rich colors and Thirties-inspired references for his debut runway show, for this pre-fall 2017 collection, he embraced more dark-toned hues, which ultimately remind us of the dark times of the Forties.
For the Zac Posen pre-fall 2017 lineup, he dipped all of his proposals in blacks, browns, and off-whites, with only a few off-yellow and petrol blue garments (slightly) reinvigorating the scene. The collection also featured delicate floral prints that, despite their conventional joviality, exuded melancholic, dark-toned vibes anyways.
As for the silhouettes and figures utilized, Posen managed to translate Thirties signature elements, such as cascades of ruffles, fitted bodices, and fishtail trains, to their Forties-inspired counterparts, with ruffles becoming pleated cuts on skirts, fitted bodices evolving into red carpet-ready mermaid dresses, and fishtail trains becoming natural extensions of floor-length evening frocks. A few ruffles are, however, to be found, too, yet at this time used as embellishments on floral midi dresses and flirty cocktail outfits.
Another analogy between such collections lies in the fabrics Posen used to refinish his items. To treat us to (of other times) diva-like must-haves, Posen infused his pre-fall 2017 lineup with loads of tulle and luxurious fabrics aplenty, making it hard for us to pick a favorite piece among such a dream array of clothes.
Photos courtesy of Vogue