Cecilia Bönström layered a lot of international inspirations for her Zadig & Voltaire fall 2017 ready-to-wear showing for New York Fashion Week. The Zadig & Voltaire artistic director brings a whole melting pot’s worth of inspiration to the lineup; she is a Swedish native, she has lived in Paris for 25 years now, and is showing the collection in New York.
“I was imaging the Parisian woman picking up the energy of the cool New York woman,” Bönström told Vogue backstage.
This concept of layers translated literally into her collection, with plenty of outerwear and other layered garments. The Zadig & Voltaire fall/winter 2017-2018 collection was geared toward the younger generation of New Yorkers, who will quickly snag up the pieces when the collection goes live on zadig-et-voltaire.com for fall.
It was chock-full of edgy modern staples that were simply wearable. The line follows many of today’s top trends, which happen to coincide perfectly with what Bönström identifies as “the four strong codes of the house: military, leather, knitwear, and lingerie.”
The military theme was portrayed both literally and subtly. A loose-fitting camo sweat suit definitely made the theme clear, while a structured blazer reminiscent of a military jacket was a bit looser of an interpretation.
Leather was used in a variety of garments and fabric types as well. Bella Hadid kicked off the runway show in a pair of multicolored leather cropped pants, and she was followed up by Jamie Bochert, whose skinnies were made of stretch leather. This same stretchy, slightly crinkly leather was used later in flared pants, and again in a thin, casual dress.
Knitwear found a huge part in this lineup, coming in a lot of bright colors. Hats and sweaters were knit hits on Bönström’s runway, especially since there was so much variety for the latter in particular. A slightly oversized chunky knit sweater can be worn for many different style types, but there were also sweaters made for specific styles, like the red “Fever” sweater, which was for someone with an edgy sporty style. It has that motocross edge to it, especially when paired with the stretch leather as it was on the catwalk.
On top of being a house code, lingerie has been a huge runway trend over the past couple of years. Bönström sent down a series of leopard print slips in neon shades, meant as streetwear, but perfectly acceptable as bedroom-wear as well!
With a focus on modern streetwear, there wasn’t a whole lot to stand out about the rest for Zadig & Voltaire. However, Bönström used accessories to create a large enough stage presence to constitute a NYFW runway show.
Some models wore studded heels down the runway that were treacherous enough to have the audience worried for a potential wipeout – none happened, thankfully. This aspect already pumped up the lineup and gave it something special to toss on the runway.
Bags that walked were also super practical. In most cases, they blended right into the outfits they walked with (a blue bag with an all-blue outfit, etc.). But a blue snakeskin bag was paired with an all-red outfit, and the resulting clash was quite striking. An instance or two more of this slightly jarring addition might have added one more element to the Zadig & Voltaire fall 2017 collection’s NYFW runway case, though.
Photos courtesy of Zimbio